Saturday, 21 February 2009

Catwalk review: ioannisdimitrousis

Knights in shining armour came to the rescue at ioannisdimitrousousis. Intricate chains and needle details channeled warriors, emphasising the pain coming from within rather than any outside influences. The intense feeling of war was softened with mood-lifting sparkles, signifying the inner struggle, outwardly fought with the illusion of glamour, rather than any intense aggression. Elaborate chains delicately woven into top-knots combined with slashes of red crochet and softened the collection. The collection may have been jaunty and angular, but the mood was sombre, the gentle shimmer lifting the mood. The battle may have been lost, but ioannisdimitrousousis won the war. Louise Hemmings

Images: David Coleman
Click image to enlarge:

To view video of the show courtesy of Toni&Guy TV click here.

Review: Theatre de la Mode

A Hungarian stuffed horse has made a stable for itself amongst a pile of upturned school chairs and some stage lights in the foyer at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Part of Theatre de la Mode’s installation ‘Elixir of the Hungarian Horse, the collection mixes the old and the new, with a few intense prints inspired by Hungarian huntsmen thrown in for good measure. “We like to move away from the catwalk,” explained designer Chris Kelly. The clothes will be hung around the installation, allowing the audience to really interact with the clothing. “We want to make an environment, a feeling of the label, instead of just being a quick image”. Louise Hemmings
Image: Simon Armstrong

And later at the presentation read what Nina Tukaj had to say....

For the third season, Theatre de la Mode has intrigued us with their non-traditional approach to catwalk presentations by creating an artistic installation from rust and wood, and a conceptual video revealing their interest in ultramodern fashion. It rises above time and focuses on bringing timeless pieces to our present culture. Their “Elixir of a Hungarian Horseman” was illustrated through a classic theatrical display of old wooden chairs, deteriorated pipes, and added humor through using a crocodile prop imprinted with butterflies with braided golden hair.

A model in an Indian inspired ensemble added to the theatricality of the exhibit, the collection itself suspended on hangers and stands so as to blend into the installation. It’s a fusion of the Wild Wild West meets Indian culture meets post WW2. Garments continue the label's ongoing use of modern materials, executed in heavily draped sweatshirt jersey hoodies and trousers. Theatre de la Mode's shows are developed without compromise, fusing inspirations from the past and present.

Image: Katie Coxedge

Warm wishes to all Vauxhall Fashion Scout designers from The British Fashion Council

"The BFC wishes the very new talents showcasing at Fashion Scout a successful London Fashion Week."

Catwalk review: Horace

Dark, edgy and androgynous; Horace's A/W '09 collection blurred the gender line and featured men in tunic length dresses and women in combat boots and baggy pants. The collection entitled "Black Monks", displayed oversized chunky knits draped and cocooned around the pale, disheveled and fierce-looking models who were fueled by the base-pumping metal-rock music. Shredded skin-tight leather and denim brought a deconstructed feel to the collection but was well contrasted by superbly cut jackets and capes. Although the clothes and styling were edgy, it was easy to see a relaxed street vibe underneath it all. A feel of early '90s grunge permeated the show but was a given an updated look with pops of vibrant green and hot pink plaid, a nod to the British punk scene. All in all it was upbeat for a rather dark collection and could easily start a grunge-era movement for the 21st century. It's official - the 90s are back. Lisa Tumbarello

Images: David Coleman

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Street style round 3: outside Horace

Name: Eliza Crawford
Occupation: Student
If you could be reborn into any fashion era which one would it be?
"The 1920's, dodging prohibition"

Name: Carly Temple
Occupation: Freelance Stylist
Which is your favorite item of clothing you're wearing?
"This Vivienne Westwood Bag, I love it!"

Backstage at Horace

Images: Simon Armstrong

Live catwalk illustrations

Illustrated by:
Anastesia Vodennikova

BA Hons Fashion Illustration,
Third Year,
London College of Fashion,
at Studio_805

at migh-T by Kumiko Watari,

at Bryce d'Anice Aime

Lauren Wintle,
BA Hons Fashion Illustration,
Third Year,
London College of Fashion,
at Romeo Pires

Regina N'Day
BA Hons Fashion Illustration,
Third Year,
London College of Fashion,
at Alexandra Groover

at KANGst

Installation by Avsh Alom Gur

There were no three inch caterpillars, grinning cats or stolen tarts, but the Vauxhall Fashion Scout team could have been forgiven for thinking they had walked in the world of Alice in Wonderland this morning. Crystal-encrusted chandeliers, squashed cones, smashed windscreens, battered boots, shattered wing mirrors and a giant cuddly dog (who had definitely seen better days) could be seen hanging from the ceiling just inside the venue's entrance. Part of an installation by Avsh Alom Gur, the eclectic mix is suspended from the ceiling by tiny wires, like a trash palace in the sky. In the wise words of the Cheshire Cat, we're all mad here. Louise Hemmings

Image: Simon Armstrong

Backstage with Toni&Guy

No fashion show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout is complete without the genius of Tony&Guy. For the last decade, they have been the official sponsor of London Fashion Week, providing designers with surreal or sophisticated hairstyles that meet and exceed their expectations. They challenge the modus operandi of hairstyling, pushing limits of what can be done with a single strand of hair.

But what are the underlying fundamentals behind Toni&Guy and LFW’s long-lasting association? “It creates a healthy relationship, providing self-education and an ongoing challenge for our people,” states Bill Watson, International Artistic Director of Toni&Guy Academy. With 25 shows per season LFW provides Watson and his team with a sense of fulfillment and inspiration, as Watson further explains: “it’s a good challenge. When surrounded by creative and ambitious people we are taken on a journey.”

The preparation for each season requires hours of working on each brief and test trials to achieve the eclectic ideas of each designer, especially as the main hair trends this season involve structure and geometric hair. “Folds, bends and futuristic looks are common among most shows” Watson elaborates thoroughly. It is clear that Tony&Guy are here to stay, planning to preserve their strong edifying and inspiring relationship with LFW. And what inspirational advice does Watson have for us hair-obsessed fashionistas? “Relax and trust your hairdresser!" Nina Tukaj

Image: Yumi Yoshinaga

Behind the scenes Polaroids: round 1

Polaroids by Yumi Yoshinaga

Catwalk review: Romeo Pires

Challenging the expected, turning preconceptions on their head- Romeo Pires defied the paradox of fashion "normality" by creating a theatrical reversed collection for their first ever show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. And it certainly got people talking!

Staying true to their use of light fabrics and vivid bold colors and prints, the dramatic collection consisted of see-through and oversized garments dressed backwards on the models. The use of delicate fabrics dominated the show, these were draped and constructed into loose dresses that flowed fluidly down the body. Boundaries were pushed further when dresses were deconstructed to include additional sleeves not intended for the arms. Light colored blazers were turned around and layered atop the dresses. Metal masks appeared on the back of the models' heads, their poker straight hair was pulled in front of the face and tied into a knotted ponytail, and big clog shoes featured heels that were positioned on the front, all adding to the reverse-effect.

There is much ado about Romeo Pires, with great expectations for the future of this rising fashion brand.

However one concern stands, which became apparent during this collection: the use of heavy, uncomfortable shoes. So the question remains: Is it right for models to wear such extreme footwear? You decide. Nina Tukaj

Images: David Coleman
Click to enlarge:

To view video of the show courtesy of Toni&Guy TV click here.

Stylist interview: Rebekah Roy

Following the Romeo Pires show this afternoon Vauxhall Fashion Scout bumped into Rebekah Roy, the show's stylist. Roy was really enthusiastic that it had all gone off without a hitch, we had to agree it looked pretty impressive from where we were sitting, "the clothes are all very wearable" explained the petite redhead in her Lichtenstein print dress. Roy is certainly busy this fashion week, she was also responsible for the styling of the Ones to Watch show yesterday, and when we stopped her today she was on her way to fittings for the Merit Award winner William Tempest's show. The eclectic array of shows that Roy has brought her magic touch to is testament to her versatility. "They are all completely different" she said "but the one thing they do have in common is that they are all perfectionists and they all live and breathe fashion." William Tempest will be showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout at 19.45 on Monday. Kelly Davis

Image: Simon Armstrong

Street Style: round 3 outside Romeo Pires

Name: Kit Lee
Occupation: Street Style Photographer
How do you see the future of London Fashion?
"I see it getting better and better with our exports i.e. Burberry etc. coming back."

Name: Victoria Ify
Occupation: Model
Style Icon: "anyone with elegance, Iman, Tyra and even a bit of Naomi."

Name: Shakka Maidoh
Occupation: IT
What makes London fashion week?
"The people make London Fashion Week"

Name: Daniel Mckenedy
Occupation: Intern with designer Bryce d'Anice Aime

Name: James Benenson
Occupation: Club promoter
What is your biggest fashion week challenge?
"Fighting my hangovers! Vitamin Water's 'Revive' really does the trick!"

Name: Sophie Missing
Occupation: Fashion writer for WGSM
Biggest fashion disaster? "Gingham and floral Minnie Mouse leggings with a saggy bum."

Name: Jake Missing (Sophie's brother)
Occupation: Writer's assistant
Biggest fashion disaster? "Neon Stussy flat cap and the whole Nu-rave period!"

Words: Janis Furneaux
Images: Yumi Yoshinaga

Vauxhall Fashion Scout schedule updates for Tuesday 24th February

Replacing the cancelled Spijkers en Spijkers show at 3pm Tuesday (the twins will now show in Milan - we wish them all the best!) will be a fantastic Pop-Up Show comprising three young designers being looked after by BLOW PR: Craig Lawrence, Gemma Slack and Komakino.

A further alteration to the schedule is the cancellation of Inbar Spector at 11.45am on Tuesday at 11.45.

Keep logged on for further updates!

Catwalk review: Bryce d'Anice Aime

A hint of glimmer here, a hint of glamour there; Bryce d'Anice Aime's collection encapsulated easy luxe. Silhouettes were defined, but still feminine. See through blouses that would otherwise have been prim oozed an understated sex appeal whilst squares of iridescent chiffon added a dreamlike quality to the collection. Devoid of all-out glamour, the allure was in the detail. Waistcoats that could easily belong in the office were given a lease of life with surprisingly placed zips; a shiny panel turned a pencil skirt into something much more memorable. Overall, a dream come true. Louise Hemmings

Main image: Katie Coxedge
Catwalk shots: David Coleman

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Street style round 2: outside Alexandra Groover

Right: Robert Kennedy
Occupation: Men's Casuals Manager at Start
Best thing about British style? "Beau Brummell" Why have you got an orange flower? "It is a present for Alexandra Groover."

Left: Joseph Farrell
Occupation: Assistant Publisher Buck magazine, "Alexandra Groover is my first show and I can't wait."

Right: Celia-Janie Ukwenya
Occupation: Junior Fashion editor Buck magazine.
" I am looking forward to all the parties but most importantly the clothing."

Left: Lloyd Powell
Occupation Model Booker
Favorite item of clothing? " These new shoes! I have just resoled them."

Right: Chuckie Mcewan
Occupation: Film student
" I love this leather jacket I am wearing as it is horrible and old."

Words: Janis Furneaux
Images: Yumi Yoshinaga

Model interview: Jasmine Poulton

Be still my beating heart. Forget gothic glamour, black being back or the revival of the jumpsuit, and say hello to a new trend for this season: heart shaped badges, as worn by the VFS team. “I love them,” admits model Jasmine Poulton, backstage at Romeo Pires, “where can I get one?” Having already modelled for Paul Costelloe, Central Saint Martins and due to walk in the Romeo Pires show today, Jasmine is beginning to feel the usual fashion week exhaustion, although less so than in previous years thanks to the new system for casting models. “It used to be twenty castings a day in completely different places, and you had to do them all within a few hours, so I always thought it would be a brilliant idea to have all the designers come to one place,” she enthuses. So how’s she finding Vauxhall Fashion Scout so far? “It’s really interesting to see new talent, but it’s also great to work with established names,” she explains. Her heart’s definitely in the right place. Louise Hemmings

Image: Katie Coxedge

The calm before the storm

Welcome to day two of London Fashion Week from Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Hitting the runway today (not literally we hope) is Bryce d'Anice Anime at 11.30am, Romeo Pires at 12.30pm, Horace at 5.30pm, Theatre de la Mode at 6pm and closing we have iannisdimitriousis at 6.30pm.

We'll be the first to bring you catwalk reviews and images - so keep logged on! Hannah Kane