The Fashion Scout

2009-09-18T14:11:00.006+01:00

CLICK HERE TO READ THE CURRENT BLOG LIVE FROM VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT

SEPTEMBER 18TH - SEPTEMBER 23RD 2009

Getting Organisation-ized: the third mentoring Salon

2009-07-02T16:25:00.015+01:00

It may be hotter than Bangkok here in London but it didn't deter the designers from our third mentoring Salon - they arrived in force with humidity defying coiffures (thank God for hairspray) to hear guest speakers representing a variety of different organisations that all have something to offer emerging designers.

First up, Annabel Lui from Knowledge Connect. Knowledge Connect is a programme that connects small to medium sized businesses to the experts at London's universities, further education colleges and research and technology organisations. If successful you can receive £3,000 - £10,000 as a grant that pays for an expert’s time working on your project.

Next Jason Caine from the Centre for Fashion Enterprise. The CFE is based at the London College of Fashion and is a business development programme that works with early stage fashion companies in London. They have assisted designers such as Richard Nicoll, Hannah Marshall, Marios Schwab, Basso & Brooke and Julia Clancey.

Thirdly Paul Alger from UK Fashion Exports. The organisation can help designers to obtain grants to exhibit overseas through the Government's Tradeshow Access programme. As the export division of The UK Fashion and Textile Association they give help and advice on how to achieve sales in overseas markets.

Lastly we heard from Chris Hall and Wendy Smith from the Fashion and Textile Museum which runs a series of inexpensive summer courses and short courses teaching key skills such as Illustrator, Photoshop and Kaledo Style. In addition there are courses in handbag and shoe design - sounds fun!

They also have space in the shop at the museum for designers to retail their work - which is well worth a visit when attempting to purchase gifts for stylish (i.e. picky) individuals. HK

Main image: Chris Hall from the Fashion & Textile Museum and Martyn Roberts, Director of Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

"Mmmm spicy" - the nachos are a hit...

Vogue, Cubed: The second mentoring Salon

2009-06-11T16:02:00.011+01:00

Tuesday 9th June saw the second in the popular new series of Vauxhall Fashion Scout mentoring Salons - and this time we turned our attention to the topic of Public Relations.

Jessica Bumpus, Fashion Features Editor for Vogue.com UK and Katie Curran, Senior Account Director for Cube PR were able to present the subject from both the point of view of the journalists and of the PR.

Designers learnt what PR means, what makes a newsworthy story, how to approach the press, what can be done relatively simply in-house, and what to expect from a public relations agency should you decide to sign with one.

Thanks to everyone for braving the tube strikes - we were fully booked again! Bob Crow and his cronies are no match for our great speakers and the promise of a free tipple or two... HK

Chris Kelly from Theatre de la Mode and Fashion Scout's Anna strike a pose.

Main image: left to right.

Jessica Bumpus (Fashion Features Editor Vogue.com), Katie Curran (Senior Account Director Cube PR), Martyn Roberts (Director Vauxhall Fashion Scout).

Images courtesy Eddie Blagbrough.

Scouting for talent - designer applications are open for Sept 2009

2009-06-09T11:48:00.005+01:00

Portfolios at the ready: Vauxhall Fashion Scout are on the look out for young, creative designers...

Applicants are judged by a selection panel of industry experts on their creativity, quality, and business development.

All designers who are invited to show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout have the costs of their shows subsidized by sponsorship programmes with Vauxhall Motors, Sony Viao, Toni&Guy, AOFM & Benefit. This programme enables Vauxhall Fashion Scout to have the highest standards of equipment and production in a great location, all at an affordable price for designers.

Top hair and make-up brands and teams are also provided free as part of the show package, along with personalized advice, a year-long mentoring programme, professional front of house and backstage teams, show DVD, VIP goody bags and much more...

Designers are also able to apply for the high profile Merit Award or to be part of the Ones To Watch show. The winner of the Merit Award will be lucky enough to have their entire show paid for!

If you think you have what it takes contact info@vauxhallfashionscout.com for an application form. Good luck!

Home Improvements

2009-06-09T10:59:00.006+01:00

Vauxhall Fashion Scout has moved house! From September we will be at the Freemason's Hall in Covent Garden - super close to the BFC's new home at Somerset House. We timed it - it's less than ten minutes walk away. In heels.

Freemason's Hall is a stunning Grade II listed building built in 1927 - 33 with a gorgeous Art Deco interior, a huge catwalk space and a brand new Presentation Room where designers can show films and installations.

Have a look at our new place!

Vauxhall Fashion Scout's new round of mentoring Salons are up and running!

2009-05-21T15:35:00.009+01:00

Tuesday night saw the first in the new series of Vauxhall Fashion Scout mentoring salons for emerging designers, funded by the LDA.

Sixty fashion designers packed into the Castle Pub in Farringdon to hear a brilliant talk on the topic of sponsorship by our guest speakers Jenico Preston of the British Fashion Council and Simon Ewart from General Motors.

The wine flowed, platefuls of nachos were hungrily consumed and (fingers crossed) everyone who attended will be able to use their new-found knowledge to attract sponsorship- be it financial, products or resources.

Over the next few days we'll be posting all the images of the Salon here and on our Facebook site (search for "Vauxhall Fashion Scout") - so keep checking back to see who was there!
HK
Polaroids: Yumi Yoshinaga

Pens at the ready...

Jenico Preston (right) and Simon Ewart (middle) meet the designers.

"Free drinks you say?!"

Vauxhall Fashion Scout has a new website!

2009-05-01T14:35:00.006+01:00

The new website for Vauxhall Fashion Scout launches today! Keep checking back to read our latest news (like the Britain's Next Top Model tour which is off to Newcastle tomorrow), biographies on designers, complete with images and information for press and buyers, information on designer applications, including those for the exciting Ones to Watch show, the latest schedule updates, and watch our selection of catwalk videos. Our brand new London Fashion Week location close to the BFC's new home at Somerset House will be revealed soon... HK.

Highlights from London Fashion Week February 20th-24th 2009

2009-03-25T11:58:00.011Z

The Fashion Scout blog is a pioneering concept by Vauxhall Fashion Scout: the first fashion week venue in London with its very own dedicated live blog! Covering news, reviews, backstage gossip, live catwalk illustrations, street style and more. In the spirit of Vauxhall Fashion Scout's pledge to support the best new talent on the catwalk, the journalists, photographers, and illustrators on this blog are all students or recent graduates who show exceptional promise in their respective fields.

As the dust settles we can look back on an amazing week, catwalk highlights included Fashion Scout Merit Award winner William Tempest's debut show (pictured), Avsh Alom Gur's dramatic eveningwear collection inspired by the economic climate and "The King and I", and the exquisite tailoring and near-architectural structuring at Hemyca.

And, in other news:

The country kitchen style media centre was a huge hit with the press, as were the lovely new Sony VAIO laptops provided by this brand new sponsor.

We papped the fashion public in their best threads outside the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue in London's South Kensington. Are you in our street style hall of fame?

Check out the stunning fashion illutrations by 3rd year London College of Fashion students, drawn live at at the side of the catwalk during each show.

We chatted to some of the famous face in attendance at the shows, including Jasmine Guiness, Colin McDowell, Sophie Anderton, Diane Pernet, and many more. Read our vox pops here.

We'll continue to bring you news from Vauxhall Fashion Scout over the summer and in the run up to September's LFW - so keep checking back!

Hannah Kane

Image: David Coleman

Inside scoop: Benefit's make up trends for AW09

2009-03-06T12:19:00.009Z

Benefit Cosmetics was one of the proud sponsors for Vauxhall Fashion Scout again this season – After the success of S/S 09 last year, I just couldn’t wait to see the key trends and make-up looks that will be hitting our streets this A/W!

As public relations officer, most of my time this season was spent backstage checking out the A/W make-up trends and setting up interviews with press. Heading up the make-up team was the lovely Rachel Wood from Benefit, who talked though all the key looks and trends for next season. Working across some fab shows including Alexandra Groover, Harriet’s Muse, Hemyca and Ones to Watch, there were definite make up trends evolving...

The two key looks for A/W are a) polished and natural and b) extremely dramatic. For the natural look, Rachel explained it's all about getting the right base this season and keeping the eyes and lips as neutral as possible. Rachel used Non Fiction foundation (1) even on darker tones to create the look of a silent film star. Rachel buffed the foundation into the skin using the Benefit mini Buffer Brush (the one that comes with Bluff Dust) and really worked it into the model's complexions. To finish the look, Rachel applied a touch of Benefit Erase Paste (1) under the eyes and onto the cheekbones in a V shape and finished with a touch of Benefit Powderflage around the eyes, nose and chin for a hint of natural brightness. Sometimes Moon Beam or High Beam were blended into the foundation to give it an illuminating effect.

For the dramatic/vampish look Rachel created a dark brooding eye - oversized and smokey - using Babe Cake liner and Town Car Cream Eye Shadow, blending the edges until it disappeared into the skin. She then brushed a touch of Snow Bunny or Nugget Lust Dusters on top of the shadow to give it a touch of shimmer texture. Strong lips were also a big hit this season- Flirt Alert and Frenched lipsticks in flaming red were popular with various designers as was Sangria lip pencil which is this season’s hot pick colour of dark plum.

The make-up this fashion week was outstanding, and I'll definitely be attempting some of these looks for my next night out!

Persephone Walton – Clark

Modus Dowal Walker PR

Maid for fashion: the life of a Vauxhall Fashion Scout intern

2009-03-04T11:28:00.006Z

Dressing the models, meeting the designers and getting a first look at the collections was what initially encouraged me to email Vauxhall Fashion Scout last August for work experience in September.

Returning this February for my second season I was already aware of what the job entailed, namely long hours (working from 5.30am until 10.30pm on the last day), a lot of hanging around in between the shows, cleaning, emptying bins as well as sweeping up cigarette butts and making sure the toilets are clean.

However, the not-so-glamorous jobs are definitely outweighed by the adrenaline pumping duty of making sure the models are changed into their second outfit in time for their return to the catwalk, as well as being able to touch and get a close-up look at the clothes before any of the audience.
Another bonus of working backstage is that it has enlightened me to exactly what preparation and hard-work goes into the shows, from watching the make-up artists and hair stylists work their magic and create fantastic creations every time, to seeing the final transformation of a tall, attractive girl, into a catwalk sensation.

If all the cleaning was done and there were enough dressers we were able to watch a show, this rarely happened, but I was lucky enough to watch Emma Bell and my favourite of the week, William Tempest (where I managed to see Emma Watson and Sophie Anderton).

My aim in life is to follow in the footsteps of Colin McDowell and Hilary Alexander and become a great fashion writer. This past week has given me a behind-the-scenes glimpse of fashion shows that I will hopefully soon be reviewing, as well as leaving with a few contacts.
All in all the hard work, lack of sleep and catching post Fashion Week flu has definitely been worth it, bring on September, when I get to do it all over again. Laura Chatterton

Image: Laura Chatterton

The rat in the hat: Q and A with Charlie le Mindu

2009-03-02T10:44:00.008Z

One of the most controversial shows this fashion week was the hat and headress show by 22yo hairdresser and wigmaker Charlie le Mindu, showing (excuse the pun) on the fringe of LFW. His full face headress made from rat and mice carcasses has caused a storm in cyberspace, but we know the genteel Frenchman as the creative tour de force behind Vauxhall Fashion Scout designer Emma Bell's amazing catwalk hair. So who is Charlie le Mindu?

The Fashion Scout: Where are you from in France and how do you find yourself here in London?
Charlie le Mindu: I'm from a village near Bordeaux, where I lived with just my grandmother, called Castelnau De Medoc. Then at 18 I moved to Berlin for 3 years which was great, but since January 2008 I'm here in London - the city that I really love and finally understands my work... There is more for me to do here and also more interesting people to work with.

FS: When did you decide you wanted to be hair stylist?
CLM: I was saying to my mum at 6 years old I wanted to be hairstylist. I started at 13 in my uncle's salon of my uncle, which i left really quickly because I hated it, and went to work at 14 in a salon in Bordeaux where just punks were coming to get their hair done.

FS: Who or what inspires your creations?
CLM: I don't look to any magazines or any catwalk shows for that, more to do with crazy shapes that I invent myself then also lots of singers inspire me such as Grace Jones or Khima France from Kap Bambino.

FS: What's your signature cut?
CLM: I think lot of people knows me as doing massive double quiff like a Teddy Boy or the "Plonk-on" shaved side and a really short bowl haircut that looks like a wig. But I will say that my most famous wigs are the Cone wigs.

Do you have a permanent salon? Or are you doing the pop up salons at the moment?
Yes I'm working from home in my cute flat in Shoreditch. Also I'm going to people's houses and every Monday doing haircuts in Tatty Devine. I'm going to start again some club to do hairstyles at night, maybe Collapsing New People at the Macbeth.

FS: What's the idea behind the pop up salons?
CLM: I start doing that in Berlin because the first reason is that Berlin day life is boring and I wanted to have to people from the nightlife coming to me to have their hair done. Also I will never work in a salon again in my life because I think it's so not interesting. At least with the pop up salon I work with different people everyday in my life which is really fun.

FS: How did you get involved with Emma Bell?

CLM: I got to work with her because I do lots of shoots with her friend Alexis Knox who is a stylist for tonnes of magazine. And Emma Bell said to her that I was the only one she wanted to have as Hair Director for her show.

FS: So what hair did you do for Emma Bell this season?

CLM: It’s quite romantic, kind of Italian and Romanesque, it’s very sexy. It’s not as crazy as usual.

FS: Did you enjoy working at Vauxhall Fashion Scout?
CLM: I really like to work there as Hair Director- there's really good space to feel comfortable and all people from the venue are really nice.

FS: Whose hair would you love to have a go at?

CLM: I would love to do Cher a wig, I think she is so funny! And so trash!

FS: What does the future hold for Charlie Le Mindu?
CLM: I've just done my first wig and hat collection at fashion week but I prefer that everyone knows me more as an amazing hairstylist than a wigmaker. Yes, one day people will wait out front of my door to get their hair done.

Interview by Hannah Kane

http://www.charlielemindu.com/

Moving on up: interview with Vauxhall Fashion Scout Directors Martyn Roberts and John Walford as LFW ups sticks to Somerset House

2009-02-26T14:50:00.006Z

With the latest news that the London Fashion Week tents are pitching up across town at Somerset House next season, the foundations of both On/Off and Vauxhall Fashion Scout have momentarily been shaken, but not stirred it seems as we put it to both Martyn Roberts and John Walford of Fashion Scout International, the organisation behind the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue.

Roberts whispered, "we are excited and nervous about moving as we have grown in this venue since we started…but anything that changes is great", and there is no reason why he should be anything but excited as this season, the Vauxhall Fashion Scout noticed a surge in attendees at many of the 22 shows. "When we started six seasons ago, we had to put our interns on the seats to fill them but this time, we're lucky if we get them in the bloody hall at all!" laughs co-founder, John Walford. He remains upbeat about the move, "Vauxhall Fashion Scout isn't rooted here at Baden Powell House, we've had a great time and it's a fantastic venue and we'll be very sorry to leave but the challenge is to always keep moving and changing."

For many designers it often seems that the venue needs to speak as loudly as the clothes, however both Roberts and Walford disagree, "we don't look at the building exclusively. It may be the most beautiful, but the catwalk may be quite small. Ultimately we always look for something that will benefit the designers," Roberts replies. Walford's concerns are more poignant, "at Somerset House, there is a local thriving community around it and I think it's great to have fashion involved in a community rather than being in a sterile playground" he concludes. Dal Chodha

Catwalk review: FAD Competition

2009-02-24T21:03:00.008Z

With names on the front row like The Telegraph, WGSN.com, Elle UK and Look magazine, and with Grazia girls dotted about the place, the pressure was on for the fourteen design students chosen to send their work down the catwalk. The brief was simple: two outfits each, based on retro-futurism and space tourism. The garments had to enhance and respect the wearer and, of course, look like the cat's pyjamas (not literally). After a sensational show full of immense structure, a library of fabrics and all manner of shapes, colours and styles, one winner and two runners up were chosen and announced.

In third place was Birmingham City University's Camilla Kennedy, with her incredible pyramid-structured silver coat and simple red jersey jumpsuit, cinched in at the waist with a wide, black padded PVC belt.

Felicity Bagget's menswear came in at second place, being both highly wearable and imminently intersting to behold. A white coat with a high collar and masculine structure stood neatly next to some beautiful grey tailoring, fulfilling all of the brief's criteria.

The eventual winner, Anna Belen Merono (Nottingham Trent University) was announced by Dolly Jones of Vogue.com and Paul Costelloe - who gave a touching and funny speech about what it means to be a designer. Her uber-futuristic designs wowed the judges with their simple lines and lovely prints. First up was a clean black and white number, knee-length and with long sleeves. It skimmed the outline of the body, carefully concealing what was underneath and barely hinting at a hidden sexuality. The second was a floaty acid-coloured dress partly covered by a black armour-esque shoulder piece. Her collection both drew attention to and protected the wearer and wouldn't have been out of place on any number of high-profile catwalk shows. The perfect blend of science and art. If the award speech was right and these designers are "people of the future", then it's a future that Fashion Scout is very excited about indeed. Emma Hopkinson

Images: David Coleman
Click to enlarge:

Raising your awareness of Fashion Awareness Direct

2009-02-24T19:38:00.004Z

Tonight’s FAD Charity show caps the end of an exciting A/W ’09 fashion week at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD), now in their 8th year, has given 14 aspiring fashion students the chance to compete for a £2,000 prize and top industry placement. The designers were asked to explore ideas of retrofuturism and space tourism in this year’s theme of ‘Urban Holographic.’ An esteemed panel of judges will decide the winner at tonight’s 7:30pm show.

Although FAD and Vauxhall Fashion Scout are taking center stage with the designers tonight, there are others at hand who have aided the development of FAD. One of those organizations is City Fringe Partnership (CFP). CFP supports designers, manufactures, wholesalers and retailers within London’s and creates links to enable businesses to meet the fast turnaround, short-run, and design-led demand of London and the export market. CFP commissioned FAD to join its ‘FashionAble’ programme to work with local students to show how the fashion industry can be a viable route to employment. Leigh McDevitt the Fashion Manager at City Fringe Partnership says, “CFP has always been impressed by the way that FAD sparks such enthusiasm and commitment from the students. With involvement of the industry and prestigious education institutions, FAD raises student aspirations about careers in fashion.”

Another partner with City Fringe Partnership and Fashion Awareness Direct is the London Development Agency (LDA). LDA provided £2 Million in funding to CFP in 2007 to support their fashion endeavors. LDA also supports the British Fashion Council to ensure London retains and grows its place in the international fashion market. In a recent article, LDA Chief Executive, Peter Rogers, expressed the necessity of investing in London’s fashion market as the effects of doing so are felt across many sectors from retail to tourism. Lisa Tumbarello

Catwalk review: Emma Bell

2009-02-24T18:50:00.014Z

As much an experience as a catwalk show, guests were greeted in the foyer of Vauxhall Fashion Scout with cartoon-esque cupcakes that were as delectable as they were kitsch. The audience were then ushered to their seats. The lights went down and the dulcet tones of a violin filled the room, slowly becoming recognisable as the childhood classic How Much is That Doggy in the Window. A giant dog then appeared on stage with a glitter encrusted cane and high-heel shoes - the canine impersonator took off his head to reveal performance artist Scottee who joined the fiddler singing an ever more aggressive rendition of the ditty.

This opening did not dwarf the show which featured Big Brother twins Samanda and club promoter/DJ, Jodie Harsh. The models donned baby-doll faces with ensembles ranging from garments made of Perspex cut-out hearts and gingerbread men, chunky knit dresses adorned with banana motifs, South East Asian-inspired print leggings and the occasional hamburger and palm tree - and a dog tooth print for good measure. Metallic quilting aided voluminous silhouettes exaggerating hips to massive proportions, there were also cones which provided protection for arms, shoulders, boobs, bums and crotches. Contrasting the matte prints Bell used shiny metallic PVC which came in the guise of drop crotch jumpsuits. The palette was colourful as ever with pastel neons, bright yellow and blue. All of which was topped off by dog head pieces a nod to Emma Bell's experience of animal cruelty in her recent travels to East Asia. Kelly Davis

Images: David Coleman
Click to enlarge:

Street style round 8: outside Emma Bell

2009-02-24T18:38:00.012Z

Name: Trushar Patel

Occupation: Menswear Designer

Out of the clothes you are wearing today which is your favorite item?

"These cat tights- it is all in the detail"

Name: Laura Greenwood

Occupation: Features Editor The Conceptionist

Where is the best place to go out in London after a day at the shows?

"Al's Tasty Fried Chicken in Whitechapel"

Name: Sane Pheonix
Occupation: Visual artist/DJ/Singer in electro band
Have you been to any fashion parties this week?
"No, but I am going to ANother Magazine party tonight so looking forward to that."

Name: Harry Mckinley

Occupation: Fashion Student at London College of Fashion
Have you been to any other shows have you seen this week?
"No, this London Fashion Week has fallen the same time as lots of deadlines so I am only coming to this show because I am friends with Emma."

Backstage vox pops at Emma Bell

2009-02-24T16:11:00.016Z

Names: Samantha and Amanda
Occupation: Ex Big Brother contestants

"Oh my god we love Emma Bell. Her stuff is so exaggerated and so colourful. We are so excited to be modelling in her show."

Right:

Jodie Harsh

Left:

Name: Scottee Scottee
Occupation: Performance Artist
"I am actually Emma Bell, but it is fashion's best secret. I am giving this exclusive to you, so don't actually tell anyone!"

Name: Gui Carotti

Occupation: Model
Are you a big fan of Emma Bell?
"Definitely! This is the second show I have done for her. I love her stuff! Last time I did the show I wore these amazing shorts and I wanted to keep them but she wouldn't let me."

Name: Shabnam Naomi Spiers

Occupation: Designer & Medical Student
"Emma Bell is such a breeze of fresh air. The colours are so bright and cheerful. I like to wear something different and Emma Bell is perfect for that."

Name: Mika Doll
Occupation: Club Promoter
"I love Emma Bell. I was so blown away by the last collection I saw. Normally I wear a lot of black, and I'm all about a lot of shimmer but to see all that colour on stage is really quite exciting. She's inspired me to wear a bit more glitter than usual!"

Words: Louise Hemmings
Photos: David Coleman

Catwalk review: Avsh Alom Gur

2009-02-24T16:06:00.006Z

Launched in 2003, one of the wider-known designers showcasing their collections at Vauxhall Fashion Scout this week is Avsh Alom Gur. With his post as Creative Director at Ossie Clarke, Gur took his own eponymous collection to newer heights this afternoon with a romantic presentation of 15 eveningwear looks, which will be sure to keep his fan base amused.

Clearly, Gur has been focusing on the current economical climate, his concerns scrawled across evening dresses and jumpsuits using heavy gold embroidery. The first look out onto the catwalk provided a moreish taster for Gur’s AW09 offering; a salmon coloured silk ball gown sashaying down the runway to the strains of Nancy Sinatra. As the press release warned, what Gur would be presenting would be “an enthusiastic presentation of excess”.

Inspiration leaped from the noticeably over-embellished ‘CREDIT CRUNCH’ embroidery, to Gur’s famed prints, which added a Bulgarian gypsy reference, reinforced by the traditional floral embroidery placed at the hemline of a tulle and organza skirt. With the main inspiration cited as "The King and I", the silhouette Gur was defining was hard to decipher although it is clear that Gur’s muse is certainly not mourning the economic climate without flair. Dal Chodha

Images: David Coleman
Click to enlarge:

Catwalk review: Blow Presents... Pop Up show featuring Gemma Slack, Kominako and Craig Lawrence

2009-02-24T16:04:00.008Z

Ten minutes before the show Fashion Scout noted an air of total chaos and abject terror prompted by the last minute changes that bubble beneath the surface of any good fashion show. By the time the young, beautiful and crazy of hair had filtered in and taken their seats the excitement was palpable. Three young designers, one show, and totally unchartered expectations.

It was to eerie, eighties saxophone and quiet wailing that Gemma Slack's first models strode onto the catwalk, exuding the sort of street-wise sass and attitude that comes only with wearing interminably fashionable clothes and a rough-shorn black wig. A heady mix of untreated leather, extreme neoprene padding and brass detailing, Slack's collection meshed dominatrix leather dresses and drainpipe trousers with medieval-looking epaulettes and a sultry smoke-print created by the designer. When hemlines were up, they were very, very up and when hemlines were down, they were way down. And when padded black gilets covered high-necked, skintight dresses, the overall effect was a desirable one indeed.

Komakino's offering was largely stomped out in their trademark black. Boxy, drop-shoulder sweat shirts sat atop slim-line trousers with a tarnished shine and tri-band belts with with ruck-sack fastenings. Lithe young male models looked as though they had been brought in from London's bustling streets and lent a gritty realism to the proceedings. Draped in see-through mesh and hoods, soft leather jackets, ripped black denim and an occasional well-crafted coat, they strutted their stuff. Concept was key - with ideas about disillusion and loss informing the show - and fabrics and texturing gave the collection what it needed to be an aesthetic winner as well.

And what was there from Craig Lawrence? What there wasn't might be easier, and the answer would be: a dull moment. A throng of knitted ribbon, crafted expertly into men's and women's trousers, dresses, vests and jumpers walked out before a video of a model jumping in stop-motion. The range of pinks and marshmallow whites knew no gender boundaries and the looped and shining ribbons danced prettily on each and every look. The girls got short and body-con in metallic salmon swirls, built-up shoulders and shape-hiding pink pom-poms. The boys got everything from scoop-back white vests in knitted ribbon to a pink and white jumper with an underarm train. Perhaps not one for the tube, but a fantastic fashion show nonetheless. Emma Hopkinson

Images: David Coleman

Live Catwalk Illustrations at Co-operative Designs

2009-02-24T14:51:00.006Z

Illustrated by: Lindsey Kinsella

Interview with Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, Global Creative Director of Toni&Guy

2009-02-24T14:36:00.010Z

Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, Global Creative Director of Toni&Guy has impeccable hair credentials. As daughter of the Toni Mascolo, Sacha was destined to be a big name in the industry, proving herself in her own right as the youngest ever winner of the Newcomer of the Year category at the British Hairdressing Awards in 1999, and more recently when voted the coveted "Hairdresser of the Year" winner by Hair Magazine in 2008. Her celebrity clientele list is a veritable who's who of fabulous hair: including Erin O’Connor, Helena Christensen, Jamelia, Jerry Hall, Liz Jagger, Sadie Frost and Cat Deeley. As you'd expect, her work has featured in every glossy fashion mag you can think, and (not that we're jealous) she's done shows for Calvin Klein, Prada, Versace, and Helmut Lang.

It's not just the big names though that get the Toni&Guy treatment - we caught up with her backstage after the Avsh Alom Gur show, as she congratulated her Toni&Guy team who are working hard alongside Vauxhall Fashion Scout designers to create the stunning catwalk looks for the venue's emerging designers. "I absolutely love it here at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, they're so professional and every season it gets better and better. It's so inspirational working with new talent. It ticks every box for us as sponsors, we develop and grow with new talent. No question of a doubt we'll continue our partnership with Vauxhall Fashion Scout" said the vivacious, petite brunette. And yes, she does have fantastic hair. Hannah Kane

Catch Sasha Mascolo-Tarbuck on GMTV tomorrow morning as she mentors and will judge on LK's Top Model Competition. Six mother and daughter couples will be whittled down to the final three, the winning duo will win an introduction to ‘Independent’ model agency, a year’s supply of ‘Model Me’ haircare products and a year’s worth of free hair cuts with Toni and Guy.

Image: Katie Coxedge

Interview: Emma Bell

2009-02-24T14:28:00.002Z

Emma Bell has been busy: whether it’s reading Lord Tennyson poems, learning hand woven embroidery techniques in Asia or - wait for it - saving dogs, she hasn’t had a moment free. “Whilst I was in Asia, I saw so much animal cruelty; they were literally bashing dogs’ heads on walls,” she says, explaining why her latest collection is called ‘I’m saving the dogs’. Bell worked with an artist to allow the canine influence to seep into her collection, with dogs appearing as prints on the fabric.

Bell is renowned for her unconventional choices of models, previously casting from both the street and from London’s club scene. “For me personally it would be too easy to look in a book and say oh I’ll have that one,” she explains, “so it’s more important for me to make sure I’ve got someone who really gets it”. And with drag-queen-du-jour Jodie Harsh, and Samantha and Amanda, the twins of Big Brother fame, rumoured to be taking part in today’s show, Emma Bell is sure to be top dog. Louise Hemmings

Image: Simon Armstrong

Street style round 7: outside Avsh Alom Gur

2009-02-24T14:08:00.009Z

Name: Charlotte Carter-Allen
Occupation: Model What brings you to Vauxhall Fashion Scout today?

"I am modelling for Craig Lawrence in the Blow PR pop-up show."

Name: Elizabeth Shingleton
Occupation: PR
Who are you here to see today?

"I'm here for the Avsh Alom Gur show but I've just lost all of my friends so I had better run!"

Name: Bet Orten
Occupation: Photographer
We love your ring...
"Oh thanks - I found it in a bathroom."

Name: Sascha Lilic

Occupation: Creative Director
Have you been to any fashion parties?

"I went to the Stephen Jones show yesterday and it was absolutely glorious - the best party this week. Mulberry was good to - wonderful Appletinis."

Name: Kim Treger
Occupation: Freelance designer and art student
Are you enjoying London Fashion Week?
"Yeah - its been good - I haven't seen many shows but I have just been to Fashion East."

Name: Simon Cook
Occupation: Hairstylist for Toni & Guy (working backstage at Vauxhall Fashion Scout)
Are there any hair trends that we should know about for this season?
"Well old school is back for boys, fifties inspired quiffs and side-partings- and for girls it's a lot more glamorous"

Live catwalk illustrations at William Tempest

2009-02-24T14:01:00.009Z

Illustrated by: Victoria Lyons

Illustrated by: Anastasia Vodennikova

Backstage at Cooperative Designs

2009-02-24T13:47:00.004Z

Images: Simon Armstrong

Credit crunch couture: interview with Dean Sidaway, Creative Director for Avsh Alom Gur

2009-02-24T12:19:00.007Z

Avsh Alom Gur’s Creative Director Dean Sidaway's imagination knows no limits. “The collection is based on The King And I and Bulgarian folklore,” he explains, “We’ve used the very intense floral ethnic embroideries but as prints so we’ve increased and decreased the sizes of them.” The King and I influence is apparent in the voluminous dresses, but tulle and organza fabrics have kept the collection light, and there are no crinolines. So is this a sign of the times? “It’s just a fun thing in light of the credit crunch, wearing these really decadent gowns in this climate.”

This year’s collection is a lot smaller than usual, restricted to only 15 looks rather than the usual 30. “It’s not necessarily a statement but we did want a more couture salon feel so it became more intimate; a small show with statement looks,” Sidaway explains.

Look out for Avsh Alom Gur’s show at 12.45 today: A collection most definitely fit for a king. Louise Hemmings

Image: Alisa Afkhami

Model interview: Catriona Vowles

2009-02-24T12:00:00.006Z

Just when you think you have fashion all figured out it goes ahead and surprises you - so here's a book review by Models's One model Catriona Vowles backstage at Avsh Alom Gur. "I'm reading David Ebershoff's 'The 19th Wife', I'm engrossed - it's about Mormon polygamy in 19th century America." We're impressed - clearly Vowles knows her vowels from her consonants. Hannah Kane

Image: Katie Coxedge

Street style round 6: outside Co-operative Designs

2009-02-24T11:26:00.007Z

Name: Juahee Han
Occupation: St Martins Fashion Student
Which designers inspire your work?
"I don't have any in particular, but ones who tell stories and build strong characters within their collections"

Left
Name: Cynthia Fong
Occupation: Fashion Design Student

Right
Name: Oly Innes
Occupation: Fashion Photographer
What are you most looking forward to at London Fashion Week?
"I should say the shows, but really its the parties!"

Name: Anastasia Nemchenok
Occupation: Fashion Journalist
What inspires fashion?
"Music! Rock n' Roll its generic you can see it in everything"

Name: Ruth Lloyd
Occupation: WGSN Writer
What is the biggest perk of London Fashion Week?
"Getting together with well dressed people,"

Words: Janis Furneaux
Images: Yumi Yoshinaga

Catwalk review: Co-operative Designs

2009-02-24T11:12:00.006Z

"Spadgermatazz" is definitely not a word likely to pop up in the Oxford Dictionary any time soon. But if anyone was going to provide a definition, it was Co-operative Designs and their imaginatively titled collection, and in our minds it went something like this:

Spadgermatazz:

1. An eclectic celebration of head-to-toe knitwear, combining graphic and textural elements on a base palette of black and white with slashes of colour.

2. A playful mix of traditional cables and fine knits, combined with more unusual elements of embroidery, felt and leather, worked to simulate knitted stitches.

3. The creation of an illusion: dresses that look like skirts and jumpers; cardigans with built in skirts; and scarves worn as dresses.

Spadgermatazz , it’s certainly got razzmatazz.

Louise Hemmings

Main image: Katie Coxedge

Runway shots: Alisa Afkhami

Interview with ASOS streetstyle photography winner Sam Hiscox

2009-02-24T10:53:00.006Z

"A couple of months ago a friend sent me a link to the ASOS streetstyle competition and they suggested I should enter. It was closing in a few days so I fired off an email and found out pretty quickly I was in the final. I spammed all my friends to vote for me and here I am!" explains winner Sam Hiscox. His prize includes tickets to all shows at Vauxhall Fashion Scout today where he'll reviewing the shows for his blog Dayglo-Poster, Brighton's only street fashion blog. The city's varied backdrop and colourful characters combining to create great street style. "I 'm more interested in becoming a photographer but I'm keen to do some writing as well. I'm here today doing a blog for the ASOS website." Hiscox's reviews can be read from tomorrow on the ASOS streetstyle microsite, he's got a natural eye for style so we predict they'll be good! Hannah Kane.

Image: Yumi Yoshinaga

Street style outside William Tempest

2009-02-24T10:40:00.009Z

Name: Marcus Rise
Occupation: Stylist,
What fashion aesthetic are you into at the moment?
"Vintage Knitwear and wearable futurism."

Name: Fotios Evangelopoulos
Occupation: Menswear Fashion editor for "Harry Can't Read"
If you could give a fashion week fresher some advice what would it be?
" Once you're in, just enjoy appreciate the designers creativity and the privilege of being there."

Left
Name: John-Francis Bowyer
Occupation: Journalism student

Right
Name: Martina Akrenius
Occupation: Journalism student
Can you predict and future fashion trends?
"Highwaisted trousers for men."

Name: Chiko Ohayon
Occupation: Photographer
What inspires your style?
"I'm swayed towards 1930s and 40s fashion and find that many modern day designers often reference it."

Words: Janis Furneaux
Images: Yumi Yoshinaga

Vox Pops at William Tempest

2009-02-23T21:56:00.021Z

Name: Colin McDowell
Occupation: Creative Director of Fashion Fringe and Senior Fashion Writer for Sunday Times Style Magazine, Chairman of the Costume Society of Great Britain.
“I thought it was really nice, very sweet, very fresh, very skilled, and I loved the prints. But my car... it’s parked outside and I have to dash or I will get a ticket!”

Name: Jasmine Guinness
“Incredible! As we knew it would be. The colour, the fabric, the print; it was all just brilliant. Such a good show"

Name: Heidi Middleton
Occupation: Designer of Sass & Bide
“We’ve heard so much about him in recent months. We’re very excited to see his collection. There’s just so much energy coming from this city. We are very excited to be here.”

Name: Sophie Anderton
Occupation: Model
“I’m going to be wearing one of his dresses to the British Fashion Council party tonight. I’m going to grab him later to do a quick fitting once the show is finished. What I love is the mix of old Hollywood glamour with the rock and roll influence and even the tie dye. He’s so talented and just such a lovely guy as well.”

Words: Louise Hemmings
Images: Katie Coxedge

Catwalk review: William Tempest

2009-02-23T21:17:00.011Z

All eyes were on Vauxhall Fashion Scout on Monday night as Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner William Tempest's collection debuted in front of the assembled international press and throng of celebrities. Among the famous faces on the front row were Emma Watson, Jasmine Guinness, Hilary Alexander, Colin McDowell and Frances Corner, the Dean of LCF, from which Tempest is an alumni. The atmosphere was electric.

For Autumn/Winter 2009 Tempest took inspiration from the courts of Tudor England, taking historical costume details such as exaggerated collars, shoulders and hips, and making them utterly modern with razor-sharp tailoring and the use of hyper-real digital photographic prints of photos taken at Hampton Court Palace presented on georgette silks, Duchess satins and silk moires.

The level of skill in the construction of the corsetted dresses and tailored jackets, and the sculptural detailing belies the designer's years. Tempest strikes the perfect balance between wearability and creativity. Watch out fashion: a storm is coming. Hannah Kane

Images: David Coleman
Click to enlarge:

To view video of the show courtesy of Toni&Guy TV click here.

Interview with Blow PR Pop Up Show designer: Gemma Slack

2009-02-23T19:55:00.010Z

Gemma Slack is one the trio of designers that The Fashion Scout caught up with to ask her first what was running through her head before her first show at London Fashion Week. As with the other Blow PR designers Craig Lawrence and Komakino, it was a combination of excitement and nerves - but Slack deemed the last minute rescheduling as a blessing in more ways than one "it means I’ll only be scared for like five days rather than six months."

There are a plethora of influences that have fed into the collection, the umbrella theme however is religion versus technology, and the notions of the protection and solace they offer. These are all embodied by the strong "Joan of Arc-esque" character that she has manifested, a creative process that she has perfected "I decide who it is, so it is not necessarily anyone who really existed, its just this person that I think all the ideas kind of encapsulates, it’s a bit geeky." Like Lawrence, Slack also formed part of the Gareth Pugh elite, the Fine Arts student transferred to London College of Fashion where she honed her skills during an internship she did alongside her degree. "I got a lot of confidence to do that from Gareth...you just get thrown in at the deep end." In ten years time Slack humbly exclaimed "Hopefully I’ll still be doing this...Hopefully I’ll still be making clothes and people will let me have another show." Kelly Davis

Image: from SS09 collection

Live catwalk illustration at Harriet's Muse

2009-02-23T19:25:00.010Z

Illustrated by Lindsey Kinsella
3rd Year Fashion Illustration BA Hons
London College of Fashion

Behind the scenes Polaroids: round 2

2009-02-23T18:40:00.000Z

Polaroids by Yumi Yoshinaga

Interview with Blow PR Pop-Up show designer: Komakino

2009-02-23T18:37:00.007Z

Komakino will be another of the designers to take the place of Spijkers en Spijkers today at 3pm. The Fashion Scout spoke with Federico Capalbo, one half of the husband-and-wife design team to see how they were feeling about the opportunity to show at London Fashion Week for the first time. "We are pretty excited actually. We are busy working on some of the outfits, trying to sort everything for tomorrow, so a bit nervous." Capalbo and his wife Jin formed the brand Komakino in September 2007, the menswear label draw inspiration from "Soviet and fascist architecture...it has basically inspired us since our first collection."

The political sensibility of the brand is translated into wearable garments, marrying unfinished details with sleek tailoring. The name Komakino may ring a bell, the title of a 1980's Joy Division track the German word means a Cinema of Shadows - "our collection and our colour palette is always black and white so yeah it matched perfectly our concept I guess." When asked where the design duo hoped to be in ten years Italian born Capalbo said they hoped to still be showing in London or Paris, "[London] is more open to new things and open to discoveries and risk. I don’t really want to go back to Italy to work." Kelly Davis

Image from SS09 collection by Kim Jacobsento

Interview with Blow PR Pop-Up show designer Craig Lawrence

2009-02-23T17:28:00.011Z

Craig Lawrence is one of the three designers who will be showing today at Vauxhall Fashion Scout at 3pm. The slot was originally meant for Spijkers en Spijkers who had to pull out unexpectedly - while we will all be sad not to see the twins this season it will be quite a treat to see the fledgling talents taking their place. The Fashion Scout caught up with Lawrence to see how he was feeling with just over 24 hours before his first show at London Fashion Week. "Nervous, but it should be exciting I think" enthused the Central Saint Martins graduate.

Surely one of the youngest to be showing Lawrence finished his degree in Fashion Design with Knitwear last summer. The follow up to his amazing graduate show, which consisted of giant Christmas decoration-inspired ensembles, is based around cocktails and sweets. The young designer told of the giant cocktails that he used to have on holiday when he was younger and how he was always bedazzled by the colourful, swirly adornments that garnished them. It is this sense of nostalgia that Lawrence draws heavily on "[the collection is] looking at exciting things from my childhood, last time it was Christmas, this time it’s the summer holidays." When asked where he would like to be in ten years time Lawrence admitted that he hopes to be showing at London Fashion Week twice a year, in between times however, he hopes to explore his penchant for performance art, with his fingers in as many creative-project-pies as possible. Watch out for Lawrence's fashion film which will be showing at the BFC tent tomorrow and will also form the backdrop to his show. Kelly Davis

Image: Chris Moore, Catwalking

Live catwalk illustration at Louise Amstrup

2009-02-23T16:52:00.005Z

Illustrated by Regina N'Day
BA Hons Fashion Illustration,
Third Year,
London College of Fashion.

The man behind the camera: backstage with Ian Gillett

2009-02-23T16:48:00.005Z

“Everyone is always jostling for the position,” says photographer Ian Gillett, “and yes, it does get tense but the joy is that you do get a position marked out when you’ve been working over the years.” Gillet’s daughter Katie has started photographing the collections this year, but hasn’t yet secured the same position in the photographer’s pit as her father. “She is at the side, but in a way you can almost be more creative by playing with the angles as you’re not working from a dead straight angle,” he admits. So how does Vauxhall Fashion Scout compare to the rest of fashion week? “I love the atmosphere and everyone is so friendly. The spirit which Martyn and John instil in everybody is amazing. I walked in and I can’t see the red carpet but I almost feel it’s there.” Gillet, we’ll roll the red carpet out for you any day. Louise Hemmings

Image: Alisa Afkhami

Review: Harriet's Muse

2009-02-23T16:33:00.002Z

And now for something completely different. Harriet's Muse shunned a traditional catwalk show in favour of a concept presentation. The audience sat rapt as designers Craig Spellar and Cheryl Partington allowed us into the personal and intimate world of backstage styling as they dressed four models individually on the runway. The first look comprised a signature corset dress, grey with black stripes and chevrons given a flash of colour with red tights. For the second look the feline model sauntered down the catwalk in a tight black leather pencil skirt, topped with a puff-sleeved leather jacket- soft, feminine lines contrasting well with the biker-chick style. For the third, the model was helped into a billowing, ruffled corset dress - short at the front, long at the back in smoke grey silk - given another contemporary twist as indulgent and rich fabrics were discarded, and previously unwanted fabric is recycled into fashion. The piece de resistance was a black wool and silk brocade Victorian inspired dress, it seems gothic undertones continue to reign supreme as a trend for for AW09-10.

"Reactionary's" message is of incorporating recycled fabrics and patterns due to the present uneasy economy shift. The atmosphere is somewhat more stern and serious than the cheeky light hearted nature of previous shows - a sign of the times. These Cinderella’s got fed up waiting for their ball gowns and made them instead. "Reactionary" proved Harriet’s Muse are aware of the ecological boundaries set for all of us, but celebrates the use of recycling and rejuvenation with a little bit of kinky fun. Katie Coxedge

Images: Alisa Afkhami

Catwalk review: Victim

2009-02-22T21:06:00.003Z

Mei Hui Lei’s Autumn/Winter 09 collection did not disappoint, models were let loose, strutting amongst the perching spectators, so close in fact you could literally smell the old, vintage trimmings, ruffles and lace that the models were adorned in. The collection encapsulated a sense of romance and Victorian glamour. Models were drenched in beads, pearls, sequins and sparkling diamonds; long sleeve gloves with intricate ruffles and stitching. Legs were wrapped up in ripped and shredded tights, tied with strings and their height accentuated by killer platforms and thigh high boots adding a touch of sex appeal to the look. The intense layering of the vintage fabrics gave the garments life and movement. Colour was kept to a predominantly monochrome palette with elements of pink, burgundy and red. It was the detailing of this collection that made it a hit.

As for the make-up, models sported pale looks spiced up with red Geisha style lips that matched their glossy red nails and huge, backcombed hair appearing fairly spooky but elegant.
The finale of the show saw the diminuitive Mei Hui Lei stomp past the long-legged models standing draped in her designs, dressed in luminous pink and gold ruffles where she was applauded immensely by the satisfied crowd. Emma Shiggins

Images: Eddie Blagbrough

An Illuminated View on Blogging

2009-02-22T20:04:00.005Z

“I think that the most creative designers all come from London but it’s almost the step sister of other fashion cities,” laments Diane Pernet from her blog A Shaded View on Fashion, “I don’t know understand why people keep passing London by; so many fashion buyers don’t come.”

London might not be getting the attention it deserves but blogging certainly is, and Pernet can’t help but think that this is a good thing: “it makes fashion more democratic because before it was something kept for 250 people who were privy to going into the show. It created a certain distance between fashion and the general public. Now having a blog means that anybody everywhere can see what’s going on.” Long live London, and long live blogging. Louise Hemmings

Image: Katie Coxedge

Review: Olanic

2009-02-22T19:58:00.010Z

It was shoulder-to-shoulder waiting in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout foyer for the Olanic presentation. Once the lights dimmed and the pop music was turned up, the inspiration for the show was immediately clear. The theme of the collection entitled 'Mirror Mirror' was clearly portrayed in a mixed media video and the clothes presentation. The video featured a montage of images reflected in mirrors interwoven between clips of models demonstrating the symmetry of the collection.

With the video playing in the background, one by one models appeared on stage wearing mini-dresses featuring tulip-shaped skirts, cape-like draped tops and cinched waists. The black colour palette was mostly matte, but did offer a pop of reflective shine in the form of precisely placed sequins and shattered mirror pieces - reminscent of the work of sculptor Andrew Logan. Accessory wise, a beautiful clutch made of the same smashed mirror pieces caught our eye. For the most part it was a very wearable collection that would befit anyone young-at-heart for a glamorous night on the town. Lisa Tumbarello

Main Image: Simon Armstrong
Additional Images: Eddie Blagbrough
Click to enlarge:

Live catwalk illustrations

2009-02-22T19:47:00.021Z

Illustrated by:

Kyuah Chae at Nico-D

Anastesia Vodennikova at Hemyca

Catwalk review: Louise Amstrup

2009-02-22T18:56:00.009Z

Currently reeling from opening Copenhagen Fashion Week this season, Danish born Louise Amstrup was nothing if not enthusiastic backstage, exclaiming "it's mad but I'm so excited!" The inspiration for her AW09 collection was suitably Tina Turner in Mad Max 3, "the idea of a strong woman in a post apocalyptic world." Naturally the focus was on shoulders and hips, and was anything but mad.

Amstrup defined her femme warrior vision this evening with strict leather sleeves jutting out from chiffon tops and geometric panelling adding a stern silhouette to leggings and jackets. Severe pleat details were contrasted with draped chiffon ruffles in a colour palette of mainly grey, black and taupe - with the occasional burst of acid yellow and orange. Further contrast came in the way of the printed panels inserted into dresses and skirts. The prints, created by layering plastic bags over a scanner, were inspired by the photorealist paintings of Gerhard Richter. Plastic bags never looks so luxe. Dal Chodha

Images: Eddie Blagbrough
Click to enlarge:

Backstage at Olanic and Victim

2009-02-22T18:36:00.006Z

Images: Simon Armstrong

Vox pops: round 4 outside HEMYCA

2009-02-22T17:58:00.009Z

Name: Nicky Hambleton-Jones

Occupation: Stylist
What did you think of the show?
"I loved the show, the cream coat and the red floaty dress which was
made for me. I loved the edgy tailoring, it's wearable and it's sexy,
it embraces the female form which is brilliant. Wearable for any age,
you could funk it up or be really classic with it, amazing pieces you
can keep in your wardrobe, they are timeless. I am wearing them today,
loved the label for three years now, I did a shoot with their stuff
recently and I just absolutly love it, it's just great."

Name: Robert De Neit

Occupation: Art Director, What Magazine
What did you think of the show?
" I really loved it, the structure and the shape. The shoulders were
amazing, it was really good, I was really in love with it."

Name: Tiffany Hsu

Occupation: Buyer, Feathers Boutique, London
"I'm here to see Louise Amstrup and I also saw Ones To Watch on Friday. Vauxhall Fashion Scout is good for fresh talent"

Words: Gemma Winter and Dal Chodha

Street style round 5: outside Louise Amstrup

2009-02-22T17:40:00.009Z

Name: Victoria Bolton
Occupation: ASOS Assistant Buyer
What direction do you see British Fashion taking in the future?
"I see designers becoming niche, branching out and generally being more individual"

Name: Hiroko Skinner
Occupation: Housewife

Name: Fiongal Greenlaw
Occupation: Menswear Designer
What inspires your style?
"I am a real traditionalist, these are 1950's trousers, I'm bored with skinny jeans and usually I wear trousers right up to my belly button."

Name: Jen Deighton
Occupation: Art Director Toni and Guy
What inspires your creativity?
"Often I am influenced by the predicted trends of the season i.e. shape, silhouette and texture,"

Image: Yumi Yoshinaga
Words: Janis Furneaux

Catwalk review: Hemyca

2009-02-22T17:28:00.009Z

As the lights dimmed and fashion babble quieted down the first model took to the runway, hair slicked back, metallic paint around her eyes and strutting in time to the Arctic Monkeys' "505". Already in possesion of a fierce reputation for exquisite tailoring and near-architectural structuring, perhaps the brilliant garments shouldn't have been a surprise. Even so a heady mix of leather, lace and body-skimming, thigh circling attire caused those watching to break into rapturous applause.

Lace panels slid down the backs of heavy and huge-shouldered tops, PVC snuggled up to the collars of coats and voluminous harem pants accentuated tiny waists beyond belief. And it didn't stop there. There were full-length, red satin skirts and structured, layered, tiered backs of dresses. There were beautiful pelise-like coats and PVC gloves. Blouses were knotted at the front, sleeves were bell-shaped and shoulders were either exposed in bandeau-styles or protected in triangular shapes that could have stepped straight out of the 80s. After the incredible reception the show recieved, designers Myra Nigris and Helen Clinch were over moon, telling The Fashion Scout "we really love this collection and just wanted it to be fun". Hemyca is a amalgam of the seemingly disparate, managing to combine power and femininity in every single garment and pulling it all off with perfect aplomb. Emma Hopkinson

Main Image: Eddie Blagbrough
Catwalk Images: David Coleman
Click to enlarge:

To view video of the show courtesy of Toni&Guy TV click here.

Vox pops: round 3 in the Off Schedule Media Centre

2009-02-22T16:52:00.005Z

Name: Simon Ewart
Occupation: Vauxhall Consumer PR Manager
Why Vauxhall Fashion Scout?
"The reason we support this is because it has such a varied mixture of design and ultimately, it's about style. It's the biggest off schedule venue aside from London Fashion Week [BFC tents] and going forward, obviously we want more talent and also to confirm the Vauxhall Fashion Scout as the place on the map for real emerging talent."

Name: Monica Cattorini
Occupation: Director for Istituto Marangoni, London
How should graduates view this economic climate?
"This economic climate could also be very good for students, we should be positive! It's my first time at Vauxhall Fashion Scout and I'm here to see Hemyca. They have worked with our students on a project before so we are here to support them."

Images: Katie Coxedge
Words: Dal Chodha

Street Style round 4: outside Nico-D

2009-02-22T16:31:00.013Z

Name: Joe Miller
Occupation: Stylist

Name: Tim Quayle
Occupation: Features Editor of Drama Magazine
What's the next best thing in fashion?
"Zaid Ghanen"

Left
Name: Olivia Forbes
Occupation: Lingerie Designer

Right
Name: Kate Forbes
Occupation: Costume Designer
What is your must have item for next season?
"It's such a mish mash, there isn't a single particular look anymore."

Images: Yumi Yoshinaga
Words: Janis Furneaux

Backstage at Hemyca with Rachel Wood

2009-02-22T15:57:00.007Z

In midst of fashion mayhem, make-up artist Rachel Wood holds court with her treasure trove of Benefit cosmetics. There may be models and pre-show paraphernalia strewn everywhere but she remains unfathomably calm, cheery and exudes a sense of complete control. In between other make-up artists scurrying over with questions and details to check, she talks about the big trends for A/W 09. "Gold and burgundy lips" she confides "are huge for the season." Her passion for Fashion Week is obvious and infectious, and her top tip is Benefit's brightening powder, brushed under the eyes for a perky complexion, and her personal mantra is "It's all about black eye-liner." Emma Hopkinson

Catwalk review: Nico-D

2009-02-22T15:46:00.013Z

Nico-D opened day three of London Fashion Week at Vauxhall Fashion Scout showcasing both his men's and women's collections. The menswear favoured classicly chic Italian tailoring, yet subtle quirks confirmed a British influence. The palette was neutral with strong lines, sharp tailoring, chunky knits and sheepskin coats hinting at a hidden softer, more tactile side. As the show progressed the glamour factor increased exponentially with shiny trousers and sequin-covered jackets lighting up the runway.

The womenswear was an entirely different affair with a host of mini-dresses and drop-crotched jumpsuits in fluid fabrics and an altogether more vibrant colour scheme consisting of fuchsia pink, plum, electric blue set against more black sequins. A delicate balance was struck between showing off the female form with streamline silhouettes and playful voluminous sleeves, and collars on cinched-in jackets. The wearability of the collection was demonstrated by versatility of adjustable necklines and hemlines. Kelly Davis

Main Image: David Coleman
Catwalk Images: Eddie Blagbrough
Click image to enlarge:

To view video of the show courtesy of Toni&Guy TV click here.

Model interview: Luise Hauschild

2009-02-22T15:17:00.004Z

"I really like London, the people are cool, polite - not like in Berlin! The weather has been really good too." enthuses softly spoken German born Luise Hauschild, commendably three and half hours early for her appearance in the Victim show at 7pm this evening. Signed to London's D1 Models, an agency for an excellent reputation of signing girls with a "good attitude", Hauschild has already walked this week at Central Saint Martins where she loved the creativity displayed by the students, both on and off the catwalk "the people looked really great." Hannah Kane
Image: Leigh Keily

Live catwalk illustration at ioannisdimitriousis

2009-02-22T14:40:00.008Z

Illustrated by Jade O'Shaughnessy, BA Hons Fashion Illustration, Third Year, London College of Fashion.

Vox pops: round 2 outside Horace

2009-02-22T13:59:00.004Z

Name: Fiorella Bellagotti
Occupation: Executive Book Moda Magazine
What are your predictions for next season?
"Well I think there are new ideas from the young generation, they are
getting better and better. More metropolitan, using sustainable
clothing, working against the elements and pollution, making them
available for everyday use."

Name: Shelley Pick
Occupation: Writer for Fashion Calender, New York
What did you think of the Horace show?
"I liked it a lot, especially the idea how the clothes cross gendered,
it should have been done long ago. I adore the leggings and jeans with
the rouched torn front, it was a great look - and great music!"

Words: Gemma Winter
Images: Katie Coxedge

Catwalk review: ioannisdimitrousis

2009-02-21T20:25:00.007Z

Knights in shining armour came to the rescue at ioannisdimitrousousis. Intricate chains and needle details channeled warriors, emphasising the pain coming from within rather than any outside influences. The intense feeling of war was softened with mood-lifting sparkles, signifying the inner struggle, outwardly fought with the illusion of glamour, rather than any intense aggression. Elaborate chains delicately woven into top-knots combined with slashes of red crochet and softened the collection. The collection may have been jaunty and angular, but the mood was sombre, the gentle shimmer lifting the mood. The battle may have been lost, but ioannisdimitrousousis won the war. Louise Hemmings

Images: David Coleman
Click image to enlarge:

To view video of the show courtesy of Toni&Guy TV click here.

Review: Theatre de la Mode

2009-02-21T20:07:00.009Z

A Hungarian stuffed horse has made a stable for itself amongst a pile of upturned school chairs and some stage lights in the foyer at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Part of Theatre de la Mode’s installation ‘Elixir of the Hungarian Horse, the collection mixes the old and the new, with a few intense prints inspired by Hungarian huntsmen thrown in for good measure. “We like to move away from the catwalk,” explained designer Chris Kelly. The clothes will be hung around the installation, allowing the audience to really interact with the clothing. “We want to make an environment, a feeling of the label, instead of just being a quick image”. Louise Hemmings
Image: Simon Armstrong

And later at the presentation read what Nina Tukaj had to say....

For the third season, Theatre de la Mode has intrigued us with their non-traditional approach to catwalk presentations by creating an artistic installation from rust and wood, and a conceptual video revealing their interest in ultramodern fashion. It rises above time and focuses on bringing timeless pieces to our present culture. Their “Elixir of a Hungarian Horseman” was illustrated through a classic theatrical display of old wooden chairs, deteriorated pipes, and added humor through using a crocodile prop imprinted with butterflies with braided golden hair.

A model in an Indian inspired ensemble added to the theatricality of the exhibit, the collection itself suspended on hangers and stands so as to blend into the installation. It’s a fusion of the Wild Wild West meets Indian culture meets post WW2. Garments continue the label's ongoing use of modern materials, executed in heavily draped sweatshirt jersey hoodies and trousers. Theatre de la Mode's shows are developed without compromise, fusing inspirations from the past and present.

Image: Katie Coxedge

Warm wishes to all Vauxhall Fashion Scout designers from The British Fashion Council

2009-02-21T19:39:00.004Z

"The BFC wishes the very new talents showcasing at Fashion Scout a successful London Fashion Week."

Catwalk review: Horace

2009-02-21T18:53:00.007Z

Dark, edgy and androgynous; Horace's A/W '09 collection blurred the gender line and featured men in tunic length dresses and women in combat boots and baggy pants. The collection entitled "Black Monks", displayed oversized chunky knits draped and cocooned around the pale, disheveled and fierce-looking models who were fueled by the base-pumping metal-rock music. Shredded skin-tight leather and denim brought a deconstructed feel to the collection but was well contrasted by superbly cut jackets and capes. Although the clothes and styling were edgy, it was easy to see a relaxed street vibe underneath it all. A feel of early '90s grunge permeated the show but was a given an updated look with pops of vibrant green and hot pink plaid, a nod to the British punk scene. All in all it was upbeat for a rather dark collection and could easily start a grunge-era movement for the 21st century. It's official - the 90s are back. Lisa Tumbarello

Images: David Coleman

Click to enlarge:

Street style round 3: outside Horace

2009-02-21T18:31:00.006Z

Name: Eliza Crawford
Occupation: Student
If you could be reborn into any fashion era which one would it be?
"The 1920's, dodging prohibition"

Name: Carly Temple
Occupation: Freelance Stylist
Which is your favorite item of clothing you're wearing?
"This Vivienne Westwood Bag, I love it!"

Backstage at Horace

2009-02-21T17:50:00.003Z

Images: Simon Armstrong

Live catwalk illustrations

2009-02-21T17:05:00.017Z

Illustrated by:
Anastesia Vodennikova
BA Hons Fashion Illustration,
Third Year,
London College of Fashion,
at Studio_805

at migh-T by Kumiko Watari,

at Bryce d'Anice Aime

Lauren Wintle,
BA Hons Fashion Illustration,
Third Year,
London College of Fashion,
at Romeo Pires

Regina N'Day
BA Hons Fashion Illustration,
Third Year,
London College of Fashion,
at Alexandra Groover

at KANGst

Installation by Avsh Alom Gur

2009-02-21T15:53:00.015Z

There were no three inch caterpillars, grinning cats or stolen tarts, but the Vauxhall Fashion Scout team could have been forgiven for thinking they had walked in the world of Alice in Wonderland this morning. Crystal-encrusted chandeliers, squashed cones, smashed windscreens, battered boots, shattered wing mirrors and a giant cuddly dog (who had definitely seen better days) could be seen hanging from the ceiling just inside the venue's entrance. Part of an installation by Avsh Alom Gur, the eclectic mix is suspended from the ceiling by tiny wires, like a trash palace in the sky. In the wise words of the Cheshire Cat, we're all mad here. Louise Hemmings

Image: Simon Armstrong

Backstage with Toni&Guy

2009-02-21T15:11:00.010Z

No fashion show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout is complete without the genius of Tony&Guy. For the last decade, they have been the official sponsor of London Fashion Week, providing designers with surreal or sophisticated hairstyles that meet and exceed their expectations. They challenge the modus operandi of hairstyling, pushing limits of what can be done with a single strand of hair.

But what are the underlying fundamentals behind Toni&Guy and LFW’s long-lasting association? “It creates a healthy relationship, providing self-education and an ongoing challenge for our people,” states Bill Watson, International Artistic Director of Toni&Guy Academy. With 25 shows per season LFW provides Watson and his team with a sense of fulfillment and inspiration, as Watson further explains: “it’s a good challenge. When surrounded by creative and ambitious people we are taken on a journey.”

The preparation for each season requires hours of working on each brief and test trials to achieve the eclectic ideas of each designer, especially as the main hair trends this season involve structure and geometric hair. “Folds, bends and futuristic looks are common among most shows” Watson elaborates thoroughly. It is clear that Tony&Guy are here to stay, planning to preserve their strong edifying and inspiring relationship with LFW. And what inspirational advice does Watson have for us hair-obsessed fashionistas? “Relax and trust your hairdresser!" Nina Tukaj

Image: Yumi Yoshinaga

Behind the scenes Polaroids: round 1

2009-02-21T15:06:00.019Z

Polaroids by Yumi Yoshinaga

Catwalk review: Romeo Pires

2009-02-21T14:40:00.009Z

Challenging the expected, turning preconceptions on their head- Romeo Pires defied the paradox of fashion "normality" by creating a theatrical reversed collection for their first ever show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. And it certainly got people talking!

Staying true to their use of light fabrics and vivid bold colors and prints, the dramatic collection consisted of see-through and oversized garments dressed backwards on the models. The use of delicate fabrics dominated the show, these were draped and constructed into loose dresses that flowed fluidly down the body. Boundaries were pushed further when dresses were deconstructed to include additional sleeves not intended for the arms. Light colored blazers were turned around and layered atop the dresses. Metal masks appeared on the back of the models' heads, their poker straight hair was pulled in front of the face and tied into a knotted ponytail, and big clog shoes featured heels that were positioned on the front, all adding to the reverse-effect.

There is much ado about Romeo Pires, with great expectations for the future of this rising fashion brand.

However one concern stands, which became apparent during this collection: the use of heavy, uncomfortable shoes. So the question remains: Is it right for models to wear such extreme footwear? You decide. Nina Tukaj

Images: David Coleman
Click to enlarge:

To view video of the show courtesy of Toni&Guy TV click here.

Stylist interview: Rebekah Roy

2009-02-21T14:26:00.016Z

Following the Romeo Pires show this afternoon Vauxhall Fashion Scout bumped into Rebekah Roy, the show's stylist. Roy was really enthusiastic that it had all gone off without a hitch, we had to agree it looked pretty impressive from where we were sitting, "the clothes are all very wearable" explained the petite redhead in her Lichtenstein print dress. Roy is certainly busy this fashion week, she was also responsible for the styling of the Ones to Watch show yesterday, and when we stopped her today she was on her way to fittings for the Merit Award winner William Tempest's show. The eclectic array of shows that Roy has brought her magic touch to is testament to her versatility. "They are all completely different" she said "but the one thing they do have in common is that they are all perfectionists and they all live and breathe fashion." William Tempest will be showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout at 19.45 on Monday. Kelly Davis

Image: Simon Armstrong

Street Style: round 3 outside Romeo Pires

2009-02-21T14:19:00.013Z

Name: Kit Lee
Occupation: Street Style Photographer
How do you see the future of London Fashion?
"I see it getting better and better with our exports i.e. Burberry etc. coming back."

Name: Victoria Ify
Occupation: Model
Style Icon: "anyone with elegance, Iman, Tyra and even a bit of Naomi."

Name: Shakka Maidoh
Occupation: IT

What makes London fashion week?
"The people make London Fashion Week"

Name: Daniel Mckenedy
Occupation: Intern with designer Bryce d'Anice Aime

Name: James Benenson
Occupation: Club promoter
What is your biggest fashion week challenge?
"Fighting my hangovers! Vitamin Water's 'Revive' really does the trick!"

Name: Sophie Missing
Occupation: Fashion writer for WGSM
Biggest fashion disaster? "Gingham and floral Minnie Mouse leggings with a saggy bum."

Name: Jake Missing (Sophie's brother)
Occupation: Writer's assistant
Biggest fashion disaster? "Neon Stussy flat cap and the whole Nu-rave period!"

Words: Janis Furneaux
Images: Yumi Yoshinaga

Vauxhall Fashion Scout schedule updates for Tuesday 24th February

2009-02-21T13:50:00.005Z

Replacing the cancelled Spijkers en Spijkers show at 3pm Tuesday (the twins will now show in Milan - we wish them all the best!) will be a fantastic Pop-Up Show comprising three young designers being looked after by BLOW PR: Craig Lawrence, Gemma Slack and Komakino.

A further alteration to the schedule is the cancellation of Inbar Spector at 11.45am on Tuesday at 11.45.

Keep logged on for further updates!

Catwalk review: Bryce d'Anice Aime

2009-02-21T13:08:00.005Z

A hint of glimmer here, a hint of glamour there; Bryce d'Anice Aime's collection encapsulated easy luxe. Silhouettes were defined, but still feminine. See through blouses that would otherwise have been prim oozed an understated sex appeal whilst squares of iridescent chiffon added a dreamlike quality to the collection. Devoid of all-out glamour, the allure was in the detail. Waistcoats that could easily belong in the office were given a lease of life with surprisingly placed zips; a shiny panel turned a pencil skirt into something much more memorable. Overall, a dream come true. Louise Hemmings

Main image: Katie Coxedge
Catwalk shots: David Coleman

Click to enlarge:

Street style round 2: outside Alexandra Groover

2009-02-21T12:12:00.017Z

Right: Robert Kennedy
Occupation: Men's Casuals Manager at Start
Best thing about British style? "Beau Brummell" Why have you got an orange flower? "It is a present for Alexandra Groover."

Left: Joseph Farrell
Occupation: Assistant Publisher Buck magazine, "Alexandra Groover is my first show and I can't wait."

Right: Celia-Janie Ukwenya
Occupation: Junior Fashion editor Buck magazine.
" I am looking forward to all the parties but most importantly the clothing."

Left: Lloyd Powell
Occupation Model Booker
Favorite item of clothing? " These new shoes! I have just resoled them."

Right: Chuckie Mcewan
Occupation: Film student
" I love this leather jacket I am wearing as it is horrible and old."

Words: Janis Furneaux
Images: Yumi Yoshinaga

Model interview: Jasmine Poulton

2009-02-21T12:04:00.002Z

Be still my beating heart. Forget gothic glamour, black being back or the revival of the jumpsuit, and say hello to a new trend for this season: heart shaped badges, as worn by the VFS team. “I love them,” admits model Jasmine Poulton, backstage at Romeo Pires, “where can I get one?” Having already modelled for Paul Costelloe, Central Saint Martins and due to walk in the Romeo Pires show today, Jasmine is beginning to feel the usual fashion week exhaustion, although less so than in previous years thanks to the new system for casting models. “It used to be twenty castings a day in completely different places, and you had to do them all within a few hours, so I always thought it would be a brilliant idea to have all the designers come to one place,” she enthuses. So how’s she finding Vauxhall Fashion Scout so far? “It’s really interesting to see new talent, but it’s also great to work with established names,” she explains. Her heart’s definitely in the right place. Louise Hemmings

Image: Katie Coxedge

The calm before the storm

2009-02-21T10:00:00.005Z

Welcome to day two of London Fashion Week from Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Hitting the runway today (not literally we hope) is Bryce d'Anice Anime at 11.30am, Romeo Pires at 12.30pm, Horace at 5.30pm, Theatre de la Mode at 6pm and closing we have iannisdimitriousis at 6.30pm.

We'll be the first to bring you catwalk reviews and images - so keep logged on! Hannah Kane

Catwalk review: Ones To Watch

2009-02-20T20:32:00.010Z

Surely you could feel the buzz that came from the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue this evening as the first day of London Fashion Week came to a close with the eagerly anticipated Ones To Watch show – the clue was in the title.

Martyn Roberts, co-founder of Vauxhall Fashion Scout commented before the show, "the Ones To Watch show is a great opportunity for exciting young creative businesses to take their first big steps in front of an international audience" and what an audience it was, including editors from British and Japanese Vogue and fashion week veteran Hilary Alexander.

As our fluency of ethical fashion progresses, along comes Edinburgh College of Art graduate, Lu Flux to help readdress the issue. Hailing from the Isle of Wight, Lu opened the show with a young collection of both mens and womenswear looks using British fabrics. The collection had a distinctly English feel as herringbone plaid was artfully clashed and used to line pockets. Key colours were ivy and faun and the knitted leggings for men are sure to keep the boys warm come next season.

Next up was Central Saint Martins graduate, Kumiko Watari with her migh-T by Kumiko Watari collection. Based on the idea of “the excitement and fear of pushing towards the unknown,” what we do know is that we all need a pair of trompe l'oeil leggings in our wardrobes. Reminiscent of Royal Copenhagen china, Watari showed a wearable collection of desirable jersey pieces with animal and hot air balloon motifs.

Breaking up the more store friendly collections was Studio_805. The brainchild of Leeds born Andrew Bannister, the nine looks presented were essentially sportswear in graphic red and white chequered prints. Walked down the catwalk to an anarchic rock music theme, one the most appealing looks was Bannister’s own; a pair of pleated trousers in a McDonalds print.

Closing the show was Royal College of Art graduate, Alice Palmer who presented a collection of feminine knits in gauges of all scales in an austere colour palette of white, black and taupe. Shoulders and hips were formed into acute points and body conscious fine knits skimmed the hips and thighs. The styling had a medieval leaning, with models wearing knitted bonnets akin to chain mail and the attention to detail on the trousers were worthy of note.

The Ones to Watch show next season will definitely be one to be seen. Dal Chodha

Images: Eddie Blagbrough

Click image to enlarge:

To view video of the show courtesy of Toni&Guy TV click here.

Catwalk review: Kling by Kling

2009-02-20T19:58:00.006Z

Kling by Kling presented a spectacular gathering of weird and wonderful garments in the foyer at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Ghostly models holding, then releasing black balloons effortlessly glided through a sea of photographers. With strong influences of graphic design the collection used garments as the basic canvas for the designer’s signature graphics. There was a mixture of elements from the circus with the top hats, balloons and clown-like make-up to a very fashionable bed-time look with leggings, stripy shirts and ties all executed in a dark, morose palette.

As for the accessories, the headwear came in all shapes and sizes from top hats to Aladdin-style plaited turbans. Shoes were reminiscent of their last collection ‘Virus’ with baubles attached to the heels - adding a peculiar edge to the look. Some of the models wore sunglasses, but of course in true Kling by Kling style they were also worn around the neck. The monochrome palette infused with small, splashes of bright, almost neon purples and reds matching the sapphire blue lips of the female models. A truly wondrous and successful display of this emerging talent. Emma Shiggins

Images: Eddie Blagbrough

Click to enlarge thumbnails:

Hilary Alexander at Vauxhall Fashion Scout!

2009-02-20T19:27:00.006Z

The Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander is quite taken with London Fashion Week. She’s so taken in fact, she missed three days of New York Fashion Week to ensure she could make the nine am start on the first day. “London is a fantastic place to be,” she admitted whilst admiring the homely media centre and eagerly anticipating the Ones to Watch show. “I am always fascinated to see new designers. It’s all part of that fantastic melting pot that helps new designers get to a bigger audience.” We couldn’t agree more. Louise Hemmings

Catwalk review: Alexandra Groover

2009-02-20T18:50:00.013Z

Alexandra Groover’s colour palette may have been exclusively black, but the absence of colour worked in the collection’s favour. Surprisingly the mood was playful, with Groover avoiding the gloom that could so easily have overwhelmed such a collection. Her Californian roots were apparent; an evening gown with a segmented hood was inspired by shellfish whilst a dress made of long strips of jersey perfectly imitated the movements of a jellyfish. Felted wool and knitted jersey worked alongside crepe-back satin, allowing the absence of colour to work on multiple levels.

Her palette may have been dark, but Groover’s future is anything but. Louise Hemmings

Images: David Coleman

To view video of the show courtesy of Toni&Guy TV click here.

Sony VAIO announced as sponsor of Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Off Schedule Media Centre

2009-02-20T18:29:00.006Z

Vauxhall Fashion Scout has itself a hot new sponsor this season in the form of Sony VAIO. It's a match made in heaven - the super sexy, sleek notebooks look right at home in the Off Schedule Media Centre, and the cutting technlogy contained within certainly makes the journalists lives easier! Fashion Scout International Director Martyn Roberts commented "it's great to have Sony on board, allowing us to offer the latest and most stylish technology as part of the media centre. London has a global appeal and the Sony VAIO notebooks will mean images and words can be transmitted instantaneously.”

In for a penny, in for a pound, Sony VAIO will also support Fashion Scout Merit Award winner William Tempest by sponsoring his show on Monday 23rd. Tempest will has collaborate with Sony to design an exclusive clutch bag for the super light new VAIO P-Series lightweight laptop. "I am thrilled to be collaborating with Sony on the launch of its VAIO P-Series laptop. It is such an exciting opportunity and fantastic that my label has been recognised by a world leader in product innovation"   said Tempest.

Seasons of lugging around this old beast of a computer has given me a wonky back - I know what I'm asking Santa for this Christmas! Hannah Kane

Image: Vauxhall Fashion Scout Co-Founder John Walford gets up close and personal with one of the shiny new Sony VAIOs.

Street style round 1: outside Julia Smith

2009-02-20T17:47:00.009Z

Name: Rena Smith
Occupation: Fashion student
Describe your style: "Urban Punk and constant reinvention"

Name: Haruki
Occupation: Stylist Assistant and intern with Alexandra Groover

Name: Hana Kitazaki,
Occupation: Fashion Assistant to Kamiko Watari
"I'm here to have fun and enjoy the atmosphere"

Patricia (designer) and Zahra (designer's assistant), both here
to see Kangst.
Describe your style: "loud!"

Name: Kirstin
Occupation: Writer
How would you describe your style? "A real mixture; eclectic and vintage with a Japanese twist but my New York roots mean I am very put together." (i.e. carefully considered!)

Name: Yuji Teramoto
Occupation: Student
Favourite item of clothing? "My vintage leather jacket!"

Words: Janis Furneaux

Images: Yumi Yoshinaga

Click on images to enlarge

Live catwalk illustration at Julia Smith

2009-02-20T17:26:00.006Z

Illustrator: Victoria Lyons - BA Hons Fashion Illustration, Third Year, London College of Fashion

Catwalk review: Kangst

2009-02-20T15:58:00.012Z

A perusal of the press release at the Kangst show indicated that the show would be heavily influenced by a retro perspective of the 21st Century, a homage to Barbarella perhaps?! While the eighties space-aged princess has a spot in every self-respecting fashionista's heart, it is safe to say that tin foil metallic has had its heyday. At least for now. The raising of the lights dispersed any such fears with designer Jade Kang's beautiful creations, the silhouette was an entirely feminine hourglass affair with knee-length and maxi dresses in an autumnal palette.

It's safe to say that the overall story was one of stark contrasts, with the buzzword without a doubt "texture". The collection was playful in its combination of fabrics, successfully combining lush crushed velvets with delicate chiffon, busy crochet with shiny satin, and what looked like faux fur with paisley. The finesse with which Kang married the dense with the light achieved a subtlety which given the juxtaposition of the fabrics was no mean feat and, thankfully, no silver hot-pants or moon-boots in sight. Kelly Davis

Main image: David Coleman
Catwalk images: Eddie Blagbrough

Click thumbnails below to view full size

To view video of the show courtesy of Toni&Guy TV click here.

Catwalk review: Julia Smith

2009-02-20T15:50:00.012Z

Kicking off fashion week at Vauxhall Fashion Scout was Julia Smith's "Mrs White'" AW09 show, a diverse collection of masculine tailoring and elegant feminine dresses, all crafted from natural and sustainable fabrics. Luxurious hemp and silk/charmeuse was contrasted with rough hewn hemp finishes, soy and raw edged sheepskin.

Smith took inspiration from the 1920s, a period in sartorial history when clothes adapted to the changing roles of women in society. The silhouette became looser, and this was reflected in Smith's beautiful floor length digital print shifts (patterns reminiscent of those intricate spirograph images created as a child) adorned with hand painted botanical embellishments. Among the many show highlights we were particularly taken with a stunning, sweeping navy silk corset dress paired with a sailor-inspired knitted silk and button cap. The model's jaunty salute made us smile. Hannah Kane

Images: David Coleman

Click thumbnails below to view full size.

To view video of the show courtesy of Toni&Guy TV click here.

Back to black: interview with Yasuhiro Takehisa, stylist at Alexandra Groover

2009-02-20T15:48:00.006Z

Once upon a time a uniform of all black was more of a style statement than a sign of being well and truly credit-crunched. So all hail Alexandra Groover, whose collection is black, black, black and has nothing to do with the doom and gloom of the depression. Groover’s stylist, Yasuhiro Takehisa explains that the black backdrop allows for the emphasis to be on the shape and structure of the clothes. “Young designers have to exaggerate everything they do in order to stand out,” explains Takehisa. Could this mean we’re doing a Winehouse and going back to black? Yes please.
Louise Hemmings

Vox pops: round 1 outside the Julia Smith show

2009-02-20T15:30:00.006Z

Name: Caroline Baker.
Occupation: Fashion Director at The Mail on Sunday's YOU Magazine.
"I'd like to see space travel, really sexy outfits as a new trend set this season."

Name: Simon Ewart
Occupation: Vauxhall Consumer PR Manager
"I really liked the geometric and patterned shift dress. There was so much variation."

Name: Denis Chick
Occupation: Director of Communications for General Motors UK and Ireland.
"It's really important for us to get into the youthful arena" commented Chick who attended with his lovely daughter Bethany, stressing that Vauxhall is a design led company.

Words: Katie Coxedge

Top gear: the Vauxhall Agila

2009-02-20T14:52:00.008Z

Blaze red, lemon grass, cosmic black, Moroccan Blue, steel silver and sugar white; you've heard of matching your shoes with your handbag but what about matching your lipstick with your car? Vauxhall's small and stylish Agila is not only available in an exciting range of colours, but also comfortably seats five and has flexible luggage space (perfect for all those fashionista friends and all their shopping). Then there's the electronic engine immobiliser, speed-sensitive power assisted steering, tiltable steering column and remote control central deadlocking (that's central locking to you and me). Impressive, even by Jeremy Clarkson standards. Louise Hemmings

Country casuals: the Off Schedule Media Centre at Vauxhall Fashion Scout

2009-02-20T13:52:00.010Z

Just a short walk from the hustle, bustle and general fabulousness of London Fashion Week lies the Off-Schedule Media Centre, a safe haven where the glamorous can rest their tired feet, kick their beautiful yet demonic shoes off (its fashion week - comfort is not a consideration) and recharge their batteries. Literally.

In stark contrast to last season's Bedouin theme, guests are welcomed to the bosom of a warm country kitchen. Set designers are responsible for evoking a feeling of nostalgia, and the rural ambience is enhanced by wooden beams, comfy chairs adorned in chintz throws and woolen blankets. The obligatory rustic kitchen table is the heart of the space and will be a base for many a journalist this week, allowing them to type up their latest review, check emails, or grab a caffeine fix with their colleagues. Anyone fancy a cuppa? Kelly Davis.

Image: Simon Armstrong.

Countdown

2009-02-20T12:31:00.005Z

It's less than an hour to go here at Vauxhall Fashion Scout! Ready for the first show Julia Smith at 1.30pm there's cocktails being mixed in the foyer, goody bags are being furiously packed, models are being groomed and (very) last minute adjustments are being made to the frocks.

The runway is finished, cocooned in protective plastic, and burly looking men are preternaturally shimmying up ladders and sorting out the lighting meanwhile legions of glamorous Vauxhall Fashion Scout assistants dressed head-to-toe black are readying the invitations.

Of course, we'll be the first to bring you reviews and catwalk images. Stay tuned! Hannah Kane

'Twas the night before fashion week...

2009-02-19T20:44:00.006Z

...and all through Baden Powell House, it's frantically busy -"go team Vauxhall Fashion Scout"!

The catwalks are up, the models are cast. The collections are ready for the fashion industry's delectation. Carpets are being layed, banners hung - and the media centre looks, frankly, unbelievable. More on that story tomorrow!

Showing tomorrow (Friday 20th) we have Julia Smith at 1.30pm, Alexandra Groover at 5pm, Kling by Kling at 5.45pm, and our exciting group show - the Ones to Watch comprising Might-T, Lu Flux, Alice Palmer and Studio_805 at 6.30pm. All that's left is to decide what on earth to wear...
Hannah Kane
Image: courtesy of Simon Armstrong. Check out Vauxhall Fashion Scout Director Martyn Roberts - not too fashion to get involved with the heavy lifting!

Model behaviour

2009-02-19T18:20:00.007Z

Monday saw Vauxhall Fashion Scout's group model casting day - the only one of its kind in London. It's the only place where London Fashion Week designers (16 in total, including some not showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout) can see a wide range of girls hailing from every continent of the globe, all in the same vast room. It's equally beneficial for the models too, they save time and money by dropping by to see all the designers in one central London location in less an hour. Why doesn't everyone do this?!

The fashion industry gets bad press for the pressure on girls to be too thin - but we saw with our own eyes models happily tucking into the food, refreshments and Vitamin Water provided for them. Eating disorder charity b-eat kindly manned the cloakroom (these girls really can carry an awful lot of *stuff* around with them!) and were on hand to give some friendly advice to those who asked.

So what were the designers looking for this season? Well, you'll have to wait and see the shows! What I can tell you is long hair is definitely back in. Oh how I wish I hadn't gone for an Agyness crop last season... Hannah Kane
Image: courtesy of Simon Armstrong

Welcome to The Fashion Scout!

2009-02-04T16:03:00.013Z

Welcome to The Fashion Scout, a blog dedicated to news, catwalk reports, industry interviews, street style and sartorial humour brought to you live from the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Venue in the run up to, and over the duration of, London Fashion Week 20th-25th February 2009.

Now in its sixth successful season, Vauxhall Fashion Scout is London’s largest catwalk event for emerging designers. Over the five days of London Fashion Week the venue will host 21 unmissable shows showcasing a selection of the best new talent. We look forward to seeing you there!

Hannah Kane, Editor.

Vauxhall Fashion Scout show schedule announced

2009-02-04T16:02:00.006Z

February 2009

Friday 20th
13:30 Julia Smith
14:45 KANGst

17:00 Alexandra Groover
17:45 Kling by Kling **
18:30 Ones to Watch – Migh-T, Lu Flux, Alice Palmer and Studio_805

Saturday 21st

11:30 Bryce d’Anice Aime
12:30 Romeo Pires
17:30 Horace
18:00 Theatre de la Mode **
18:30 ioannisdimitrousis

Sunday 22nd
14:45 Nico-D
15:45 Hemyca
17:00 Louise Amstrup
19:00 Olanic **
19:15 Victim
Monday 23rd
14.45 Harriet’s muse **
19:45 William Tempest (Merit Award)
Tuesday 24th
09:30 Cooperative Designs
11:45 TBC
12:45 Avsh Alom Gur
15:00 Blow Pop-up show
17:30 Emma Bell
19:30 FAD Charity Show

** presentations

Suzy Menkes spotted in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Media Lounge, SS09

2009-02-03T17:43:00.002Z

The friendly, welcoming Off Schedule Media Lounge at Vauxhall Fashion Scout proved itself a sure fire winner during the SS09 season with esteemed journalist Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune just one of the many high profile visitors.

The perfect antithesis to the stress of fashion week, the lounge is a retreat for press to file copy or internet research on the free-to-use Apple Macs, tap into the free WiFi, catch up on the show videos, or simply relax on the roof terrace (yes, you can even have a ciggie!) with a much needed cup of (free) coffee. Look out for this season's brand new eyecatching design- it's very hush hush at the moment but I can assure you it'll be the only media centre worth staking out!

Hannah Kane

Ones to watch

2009-02-03T15:34:00.006Z

For the first time this season Vauxhall Fashion Scout will present a group show comprising of Lu Flux, Migh-T, Alice Palmer and Andrew Bannister. This eclectic mix of young men’s and womenswear designers are in the first stages of their careers and their varied influences provide a snapshot into the promise of the next generation of fashion designers. Read what Vogue has to say! Hannah Kane

Image: Lu Flux Edinburgh College of Art Graduate Show 2006, courtesy of Chris Moore/Catwalking.

William Tempest wins first Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award

2009-02-03T15:19:00.012Z

This season sees the launch of the pioneering Fashion Scout Merit Award, a sponsored catwalk show at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue. This year’s winner as judged by a top panel of media, PRs, buyers, and fashion business experts is the hotly-tipped William Tempest. A graduate of the London College of Fashion, Tempest worked for Giles Deacon for two years before moving to Paris to work with Jean Charles de Castelbejac. December 2008 saw Tempest in the press with a dress he designed for Harry Potter actress Emma Watson and his London Fashion Week debut is much anticipated. Tempest commented, "It is fantastic to be the first recipient of Fashion Scout's new sponsorship award as it will not only provide me with a great platform to showcase my work but also the opportunity to develop my label. I'm really looking forward to working with the Vauxhall Fashion Scout team." Hannah Kane

Image: William Tempest design AW08.